Senin, 25 November 2013

What to wear at the office with a pinstripe suit?

Q. I like dark grey suits with white vertical pinstripes for business wear. I have also worn solid dark blue ones for variety, but I like grey ones better. White broadcloth shirts are most formal, but there may be alternatives that are still sober and dignified. What colors and patterns of shirts and ties do you suggest for my formal business look? How about shoes? For bonus points, what brands and models of watches would you wear with such a business ensemble? It seems that magazines have recommended many tres gauche combos, and celebrities have worn many tasteless ones, so people are confused about proper dress now. Some people who have answered questions in this category have good taste, but some do not.
Doesn't anyone know something about proper dress for business? Surely someone works in a proper and conservative office as I have. I see some people recommending garish and tasteless ensembles, somewhat along the lines of stuff Woody Allen once wore to be ridiculous, but now, other celebrities wear worse stuff and don't know or don't care if it is tasteless.
I want to see what people say about watches. For business, Simple is best, so "Cellinis' are the Rolexes proper to wear with suits. I saw one recently for $3650. My basic dress watches by Cartier, Vacheron Constantin and Patek Philippe cost $10,700 to $15,000 now. I have 2 Rolex sports watches. The gold bracelet "OP Datejust" cost $13,150 in 1994. My Breguet "Marine" cost $29,500. The most complicated Rolex is a "Cosmograph Daytona" chronograph. I think a new on in gold costs $19,450. The ultimate single complication is chimes, e.g, a $507,000 Vacheron Constantin "30010" platinum skeleton minute repeater. I have written seeral books about watches. I am working on the 4th edition of "THE COSTLIEST WATCH BRANDS". Rolex places 41st now. In earlier editions, it was 18th to 24th. Breguet was costliest with Patek philippe 2nd, Vacheron constantin 3rd and A. Lange & Sohne 4th. A new brand Richard Mille wins now.
My coloring shows my 2 Cherokee grandmothers, i.e black hair with red highlights (some grey around the ears since age 17), ruddy bronze tanned skin plus brown eyes. when i was age 10, we went to a Cherokee village at the foot of the Smoky mountains. The Indians nearly kept me. Dad was amused. They didn't notice my siblings who have olive skins and medium brown hair. I look Cherokee, but they do not.

A. *laugh*

Ok.. first off, dark grey and white is pretty neutral as it can get. You could pretty much go for most colours, but I'd suggest lighter colours rather than the medim>dark colors. Why? because medium shades might be too intense against the contrast of the dark suit, and dark colored shirts will blend in too much... might make you look too .. dull.

Now, it depends on your skintone what colors look best on you. If you're light skinned, there are certain shades that will bring out your coloring, versus if you were dark or olive skinned. Without your notes on coloring, I can't really suggest any colours or any shades of colors... (example: yellows might make olive skin look too strange and dull, but the light blues/greens will bring olive skintones out) That's not a hard and fast rule because a very pale shade of yellow might look stunning against you, just not a green-yellow or a blue-yellow.. it's all relative in how the light hits your skin and bounces off the suit.

As for shirts/ties.. the general rule is that if your shirt is busy or bright, go for a neutral tie.

example: pinstriped suit, a light green shirt with faint white checks in it (not plaid..please), means you wear a tie that's a light grey/silver to pick up the white in the pinstripe, or even have a tie that's a mix of greens and silvers or a pattern to really bring out the shirt. You can go kind of crazy in terms of slick patterns with the ties (checks, stripes, light dots), but nothing like saxophones or weird babies on the front please... Spend up to about $100/tie, in a neutral silver or offsilver colour and it'll go with pretty much any shirt/suit combo.

As for shoes, if you have cash to blow, go to a high end store like Holt Renfrew in Toronto (depending on where you are, ask a woman..) and get a black and a brown pair of shoes, in real leather that are comfortable, and the same height (so that your pants will hang at the same height each time)

THen you'll need to get your pinstriped suit tailored to fit you perfectly, and to get the tailor to put a proper break in your pants so that they sit well over your new shoes. I like the Gucci loafers for men... if you can't afford high end, go to a place like a department store, or Aldos, or any place that sells trendy but decently done shoes.

The best watch? Rolex of course. Then Gucci or Prada. If you can't afford that, you could even go to Walmart and pick out a gorgeous smoked-grey face watch with a clean, silver band that would look great with your grey pinstriped suit. You can also try Fossil watches for a lower-end alternative that will last almost forever.

Some options for dress watches:

http://www.fossil.com/shopping/product/detailmain.jsp?itemID=39175&itemType=PRODUCT&iMainCat=957&iSubCat=967&iProductID=39175

http://www.fossil.com/shopping/product/detailmain.jsp?itemID=39175&itemType=PRODUCT&iMainCat=957&iSubCat=967&iProductID=39175

http://www.fossil.com/shopping/product/detailmain.jsp?itemID=39449&itemType=PRODUCT&iMainCat=957&iSubCat=967&iProductID=39449

http://www.fossil.com/shopping/product/detailmain.jsp?itemID=30138&itemType=PRODUCT&iMainCat=957&iSubCat=967&iProductID=30138

http://www.fossil.com/shopping/product/detailmain.jsp?itemID=8524&itemType=PRODUCT&iMainCat=957&iSubCat=967&iProductID=8524

http://www.fossil.com/shopping/product/detailmain.jsp?itemID=15417&itemType=PRODUCT&iMainCat=957&iSubCat=967&iProductID=15417

I think you get the idea.

If you need more help, email me.. via brokeinthecity@gmail.com


What advice do you have for me to build a new wardrobe?
Q. I'm a female college-age adult, with an androgynous aesthetic. I have lost pretty significant amounts of weight and need to basically rebuild my wardrobe nearly from scratch. I might as well try to do it right, since my body fat is probably not going to change substantially even though I'm trying to build up muscle. I am 5'3" and of medium body fat and above average muscularity, with medium-to-broad shoulders (narrow for a man, fairly broad for a woman); typical female thighs, hips and butt; B-cup breasts, a flat stomach; and an undefined waist. To me, flattering my body, in order of priority means looking making my shoulders look even broader, making my hips and thighs look narrower, looking taller, disguising my breasts and otherwise looking more masculine. My life-style requires that my clothing NOT look "moneyed" in any sense and I am almost never at formal events. I'd rather have my clothing be hard-wearing than delicate. I dress for practicality and comfort primarily. It doesn't have to be "trendy" and I wouldn't know if it was. It's winter so I'm concentrating on cool-weather clothing. I don't need new shoes or underwear. I have a very small budget so I will be shopping pretty near exclusively at thrift stores. I need general tips for clothing that works flatter my body in MY idea of flattering, and is comfortable and fairly practical.
I don't have a sense of style. I have a sense of wanting to look good in clothing that's comfortable. For me, looking good means looking more physically masculine. I want to know about clothing that helps with that.

A. Invest in good basic pieces such as:
- A crisp white button down
- Tank tops to wear as layers in black, white, beige
- One good pair of black or navy dress pants

Things of that sort. Things that aren't trendy but stand the test of time.





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